What is Shutter Speed?

Shutter speed is the length of time that the shutter is open exposing the camera sensor to light. The faster the shutter speed is, the less light falls onto the sensor. If you slow the shutter speed down, there is more time for light to fall on the sensor and you end up with a brighter photograph.

Why don’t I shoot with a longer exposure all the time?

There are times when you will want to use a fast shutter speed, and there will be times when you will want to use a slower shutter speed. This all depends on the subject you are photographing.

When you shoot a photo with a slower shutter speed, the more likely it is to have the subject move or the camera shake creating a blur. This is fine if you are photographing something that is motionless such as a mountain. But not so much with a fast moving subject like sports or wildlife. You don’t want to photograph a Bald Eagle snatching a Salmon out of a river with a slow shutter speed. The eagle will just be a blur. You will want to use a fast shutter speed like 1/1000 shutter or 1/2000.

When to use a slow shutter speed.
(1/20 seconds to 30+ seconds. )

For motionless subjects like landscapes, you can slow your shutter speed down and not worry about motion in the picture. The mountain is probably not going to move. If you slow your shutter down too much such as 1/20 or 1/10 of a second while hand holding your camera, you could start to get blurry photos. Even when people try to hold completely still they still tremble a tiny amount, but its enough to get a blurry photo at a slow shutter speed. This is when you will need a tripod or monopod to hold the camera still. If your camera or lens is equipped with Image Stabilization, you can shoot with a slower shutter speed and still get sharp photos. Canon uses IS for image stabilization, and Nikon uses VR for Vibration Reduction. Even though they are called different things, they mean the exact same thing.

Hand holding your lenses allow you to stay nimble, but introduces the opportunity to introduce more camera shake into your photos. The focal length of your lens determines the slowest shutter speed you can shoot at. When you are shooting with a wide angle lens, because it is such a wide field of view, any movement you make with the lens will be so minuscule that it will be nearly unnoticed so you can slow the shutter speed even more. When you are shooting with a telephoto lens such as the 70-200mm. Any movement you make while zoomed will be incredibly noticeable, so you will need to shoot with a faster shutter speed. This is why a lower aperture is critical with longer focal length lenses.

If you are shooting photos in a dark location, you will want to use a slower shutter speed to let in as much light as you can. Opening up your aperture to and increasing your ISO will also let in more light. You can also use off camera flash to add light to the situation to allow you to shoot at higher shutter speeds. If you ever attend a professional basketball or football game, you will sometimes see the entire stadium flash for a split second. It almost goes unnoticed unless you are watching for it. Those are the flashes triggering for the photographers along the sidelines. They use these to illuminate the entire arena and capture the action. If not for those flashes, the photographers reduce their ability to catch the action without increasing their ISO, lowering their aperture, or slowing their shutter speed. Those flashes allow the photographers to shoot fast and sharp.

There will be times when you will want to really slow the shutter down. you will want to use a longer shutter speed consisting of several seconds to photograph a waterfall and get silky smooth water. With a fast shutter speed, the water will be frozen in place. You want to use a slower shutter speed so the rushing water blurs as it falls giving the viewer a sense of motion. The same also goes for other subjects like moving cars, crashing waves, blowing grass, etc. Giving these subjects a slight blur will give the viewer a sense of motion.

Many digital cameras can set the shutter speed to as much as 30 seconds. When you use such a slow shutter speed, you are letting a lot of light into the camera and your photo can over expose quickly. When you over expose a photo, parts of the photo or the entire thing will be white. There is no details in a over exposed picture, and you will not be able to rescue it during post processing. To prevent over exposure, you can use a Neutral Density filter to let in less light. Think of sunglasses for your camera.

When to use a fast shutter speed.
(1/125, 1/250, 1/1000, 1/4000…)

If you are shooting sports of wildlife, you will want to use a faster shutter speed. When the football player scores the winning touchdown, you want to freeze the action to capture the look on his face, the ball crossing the line, the defense doing everything they can to stop him. Those things only happen for in instant and then they are gone. A fast shutter speed lets you capture those instances. With a slower shutter speed, it would all be a blur.

The higher you increase the shutter speed, the less and less light you are letting into the camera. If you ever try to use a fast shutter speed in low light, you will get an underexposed image. The image is now too dark because you are taking a photo at 1/250 of a second and not enough light is entering the camera. To counter this, you can open up the Aperture to increase how much light is let into the camera, or you can increase your cameras ISO to make the camera more sensitive to light. The higher the ISO is set, the more noise there will be in your image. But sometimes it’s worth the extra noise to capture the moment. A noisy photo is better than no photo at all.

How does shutter speed work?

The camera shutter consists of 2 curtains. One that opens at the beginning of the exposure, and the 2nd curtain which closes at the end of the exposure. When you adjust the shutter speed, you are adjusting the amount of time between the first shutter opening, and the second shutter closing. As you increase the shutter speed, the more narrow the slit becomes between the opening and closing shutters.

What Is A Histogram?

Have you ever taken a photograph and on LCD screen on the back of your camera it looked like it was perfectly exposed. But when you see the photo on your computer screen, it looks either too light or too dark? With most modern digital cameras, you can turn on the Histogram to see the exact exposure plotted on a graph. This way instead of relying on the screen on your camera, you can read the Histogram to accurately see if you have a proper exposure.

A Histogram is a graph that shows you what is light and what is dark in your photograph. Your photo is broken up into individual pixels and plotted on the histogram based on tonality. Black is plotted on the far left, and White is plotted on the far right. The darker tones are plotted towards Black on the left, and the lighter tones are plotted towards White on the right.

The goal is to not have the histogram touching either the left or right side of the graph. That means the pixels on the far right of the histogram are pure white. When something is pure white, there is no information left in the pixel besides pure white. If you try to darken that pixel in post processing, It doesn’t know what color to turn and you will just end up with a gray color. The same goes with the far left side of the histogram, but the far left means the pixel is pure black. There is no information in a pure black pixel if you try to lighten it, and it will also turn gray.

You want the histogram to stay towards center of the graph. You will have the most control and flexibility when adjusting the exposure later in Photoshop or Lightroom when the majority of your histogram is in the center of the graph.

To turn on your histogram, man

A Proper Histogram

As you can see with the histogram for the snowy road, there is almost no data touching the far left, and no data touching the far right and this photo has a proper exposure. The spike on the right side of the Histogram is all the white snow in the scene. It is easily to blow out the snow in a scene to pure white and the histogram can help you achieve bright white snow while retaining detail on the surface. Make sure to read the Winter Photography Tips to learn how to get great shots in the snow.

With this photo of Portland, Oregon at dusk, the Histogram shows that much of the data is plotted on the dark side of the graph. While much of the data is in the shadows, it is not bunched up against the edge of the histogram. This was the effect I was going for, I wanted to photograph the lights of the city while retaining the colors in the sky. This required a underexposed photo.

Break the Rules

Now that you understand what the Histogram is, and why you do not want the data bunched up against one of the ends, it is now time to break the rules and bunch those pixels up the edges of the Histogram. This photo is of the Lunar Eclipse from October, 2014. Because the night sky was so dark when the eclipse was taking place I had to underexpose much of the photo. I wanted a proper exposure of the red colored moon and I did not care about the darkness beyond. I knew I was not going to attempt to pull any data out of the darkness in Photoshop so I let it go pure black.

Photography is an art. It is easy to get wrapped up in the technical know how and the rules. That is not what photography is about, you have to break the rules and experiment. But the only way to break the rules is to first learn the rules.

Why You Should Shoot Raw

When you press the shutter release on your camera, the shutter quickly opens exposing the sensor to light. The light that hits the sensor is then turned into raw data. When you shoot JPEG, that raw data gets processed by camera into a finished photograph. The problem with this method is that you are leaving all of the decision making and creativity up to the camera.

Think of your photograph as a cake. You have your ingredients, eggs, flour, sugar, butter, milk, etc. You can change those ingredients all around to easily create all sorts of different types of cakes. But once you bake the cake, it is a lot harder to go back and change the flavor. Think of a RAW picture as the basic ingredients of your photo. When you are shooting in JPEG mode, the camera “bakes” all those raw ingredients into a final JPEG file. It is much harder to go back and change things like the white balance or recover shadow once the camera creates a JPEG image.

The Benefits of shooting RAW:

There are many reasons why you should be shooting raw. Because you are dealing with the raw data directly from the camera sensor, you have more power to control that data and push it to its limits.

White Balance:
When you shoot raw, you have the ability to control the white balance after the fact. You can easily increase or decrease the temperature to make the photo more accurate to the original scene. If you are leaving the decision making up to the camera, it may decide on a white balance that will create odd color casts on the photo resulting in a overly blue, green, or orange photograph. The human eye is much more capable of deciding what true white light should look like.

Noise Control:
When shooting JPEG, your camera automatically applies noise reduction to the photo. This automatic noise reduction can reduce sharpness and detail in the photo. When you shoot raw, you can apply the noise reduction yourself with better control during post processing using Photoshop, Lightroom, or other software. This allows you to maintain detail and sharpness in the finished photo.

Dynamic Range:
Raw better preserves the details in the shadows and highlights of the photograph. During post processing, you can adjust the exposure, or Dodge (lighten) and Burn (darken) specific areas of the photo without losing detail. When you shoot JPEG, you have less information in those dark and light areas of the photo, and when you try to dodge and burn those areas, there is no data there to pull from. You quickly run out of wiggle room when editing the photo.

The Cons of shooting RAW:

There are downsides to shooting raw. Raw files are much larger than JPEGs. Raw files can easily be several times as large as JPEGs. But with memory cards and hard drives becoming increasingly less expensive and higher capacity, file size is quickly becoming a non issue. But with the larger files sizes, the write speed of the memory cards is still an issue. When you are quickly shooting a burst of photos to capture action, your camera can fill up its buffer in no time. The buffer is where the camera temporarily stores the photos in memory while it waits to record them to the memory cards. A faster memory card clears the buffer quicker. This buffer is only so large, and the raw files can fill the buffer fast. Once the buffer is full, the camera does not allow you to shoot anymore photos until there is room in the buffer. You may miss a shot because of this. But because JPEGs are much smaller, they not only write to the memory card faster, It takes more JPEGs to fill the buffer. This is one of the reasons sports photographers may choose to shoot JPEG instead of raw.

Another downside to shooting raw is that all your photos will need to be processed in some way. When you first import your raw photos into Lightroom, they will all look dull and soft. You may need to adjust the contrast, color saturation, and sharpening to all your photos before you are finished. Once you have done that, you will then need to export the processed photo to a standard format such as JPEG. Now you can share, and post it for the world to see.

Raw files are also a proprietary format. This means that possibly in the future, you may not be able edit your raw files anymore. Your editing software has to be able to support your specific raw format. When a new camera is released, it often takes a little bit of time for support to be added to your editing software. For example, when the Canon 7D Mark II was released, it took Adobe a little bit of time to release a software update for Lightroom for you to be able to edit the raw files from the new camera. Possibly in the distant future, there will not be any added support for your raw files you shot with an old camera. For this very reason, there is an open source standard that you can convert your raw files to in order to always have support for your photos. This standard is called Adobe DNG (Digital Negative).

You can find out more about DNG here

The Benefits of Shooting JPEG

There are times when it makes sense to shoot JPEG. If you are are a sports photographer, or photojournalist, Besides not missing a shot because your cameras buffer is full, you often will need to get your photos uploaded quickly to your editor so they can publish the news as soon as possible. Not having to process the photos allows you to get them delivered fast. The same goes if you are at a party, or out with friends and you just shooting snapshots, you may not want to have to process every photograph before getting them posted to a social network or sent to friends. Most people will not know the difference anyway. You are saving yourself a whole lot of work and time.

If your camera supports it, you can also choose to shoot both RAW and JPEG (RAW + JPEG) at the same time. Both formats will be recorded to your memory card simultaneously. This way, you can use the JPEG when you need a photo quickly or without editing, but when you need to do some heavy editing of a specific photo, the raw file will be available.
Another choice is to shoot raw, and extract a JPEG preview that is embedded inside the raw file using 3rd party software. When you shoot a raw file and the image appears on the LCD screen of your camera, a JPEG preview is what is being displayed. Not the raw file itself. You can extract that JPEG from the RAW file when needed.

Don’t let anybody tell you that one format is better than the other. Only you can make that decision. It all depends on the subject matter and personal preference. This article is to help you make an informed decision on which is best for you.

What is White Balance?

The White balance is used when you are removing a color cast from your photos. Adjusting the white balance changes how yellow/warm or how blue/cool your photos look.
Not all light is created equal. Some light sources such as candles and sunsets give off a warm yellow color while others like fluorescent lights give off a cooler blue color.

When you are adjusting the white balance on your camera, you are telling it to either add blue or yellow to the photo so anything white in the photo will look white. When you are in sunny conditions, and you set your white balance to Daylight/Sunlight, you are telling the camera to add Blue to the photo to counter act the yellow sunlight. If you are shooting in shade, and you still have the white balance set to Daylight/Sunlight. The photo will look extra blue because the white balance is still adding additional a Blue color to the already blue scene. Set your white balance to shade instead. Now the camera white balance will add yellow to the shady scene to make everything white look white. Post processing is much easier when you have accurate colors to begin with.

White balance is something that is often overlooked but it can dramatically change the feel of your photograph. You can use the color balance to give the viewer a feeling of being warm or cold. Hollywood movies will use white balance to make you feel like you are freezing in Antarctica or on that warm tropical beach.

The term “White Balance” is often used interchangeably with the term “Color Temperature.” They both deal with the color of light, but they are different. Color Temperature is the color of light that is emitted from the light source. Color Temperature is measured in Kelvin. The temperature of the surface of the light source dictates the color of the light. The Hotter the light source, the cooler/more blue the light is. The cooler the surface temperature, the more yellow the light source. White Balance is the setting in your camera that makes your whites look accurate and not too yellow or too blue.
A good camera will allow you to manually set the white balance. Cameras typically can be set somewhere between 2,000 Kelvin and 10,000 Kelvin. Some cameras may differ and allow you to go even lower or higher.

Choosing a White Balance

Modern cameras have common presets for setting the white balance to accommodate your current lighting conditions. If you are photographing your kids blow out their birthday candles, set for the candle preset. Or you are shooting you kids basketball game in the school gym. Set your white balance for fluorescent.

Auto White Balance – With Auto White Balance, you are allowing the camera to decide on the proper white balance. This may sound like a good idea, but sometimes the camera gets confused and will set the white balance either too warm or too cold. The white balance can also shift from photo to photo and make all of them look different. You don’t want to have some photos from a portrait session to look warm, and have others look cool. When all your photos look different, it requires a lot of more work to make them all look the same. Even if you choose the wrong white balance preset, at least they will all be the same and require the same edit to make them look correct. While other times, Auto white balance is just fine as long as your photos are not part of a series and do not have to look the same.

Daylight/Sunny – This is the setting you will use when shooting in direct sunlight. Since sunlight is yellow, the daylight setting will make sure your photos do not look too yellow.
Shade – The shade setting is for when you are photographing a subject that happens to be in a shady location. Objects in the shade will look more blue than objects in direct sunlight.

Cloudy – On a cloudy day, the light will be much more blue and cooler.

Tungsten Light – This is the common household 75 watt lightbulb. Use this setting when you
are inside your home.

White Fluorescent Light – This is for the new energy saver lightbulbs. they give off a slightly cooler color. Use this setting inside your home when you have energy saver light bulbs.

Flash – Use this setting when using the popup flash or an external flash.

Custom White Balance – Sometimes the white balance presets just don’t look right. You may want to create your own custom white balance setting. First you need to take a photograph of something either White or Gray. You can use a Gray card if you have one. Next set your camera to Custom White Balance, and select the photo you just shot. The camera will analyze that photo for any color casts and remove them from your photos. Now your white balance will be perfect until the lighting changes.

Color Temp – This is where you dial In the exact degree in Kelvin you want to set the camera to. My camera allows me to adjust the color temperature between 2,500-10,000 kelvin. When using the Color temp setting, you have complete control over what temperature your white balance is set to.
Things to Remember

Stay out of Auto White Balance if you need all your photos look look alike. Its a lot harder to get them to all look alike if they all start someplace different.

As long as you are shooting your photos in RAW, you can always go back and adjust your White Balance during post processing. You have less control over the white balance when shooting Jpeg. Jpeg does not allow you to adjust the white balance to the degree that RAW does.

Pick a white balance with the thought of what you want your viewer to feel. What emotions you want them to evoke.

Keep a Grey card in your camera bad so you can set a custom white balance anywhere. Grey Card on Amazon

Break the rules. Photography is art. nowhere does it say you must have perfect colors. As long as it looks good to you, that is all that matters. But understanding what white balance is, and how it works can never hurt.

How to Take Great Pictures of Christmas Lights

You can feel it in the air, you hear the music in the streets, the people are in a festive mood. The holidays are once again upon us. There are Christmas lights and other festive decorations going up everywhere you look. You see cars with trees strapped to the top. The children are visiting Santa to tell him what they want for Christmas. The holidays truly are a great time for photography.

The Christmas lights are beautiful to see, but they can prove difficult to photograph. Do you ever shoot a picture of Christmas lights but end up with a a dark underexposed picture with little dots of light? These photography tips will help you capture the beauty of the holiday season fast and easily. So you can get back to spending precious time with family and loved ones, and not fumbling around with your camera.

Take Pictures During The Blue Hour

The biggest mistake people make when shooting Christmas lights is waiting until it’s way too dark to take pictures. People wait until the Christmas lights look good to their eyes, but this is usually past the time when the lights look the best to a camera. Cameras can only see so well in the dark so you want to photograph while there is still some light in the sky. The time just after the sun sets is the best time for taking pictures of Christmas lights. This is called the Blue Hour, when the sky still has a blue glow, but it will be dark very soon.

When you are shooting during the blue hour, the sky and the foreground will be equally exposed. If you wait until its too dark, you will just have a Black sky. You wont be able to see any detail in the scene besides the little Christmas lights themselves. You will not be able to see what the lights are decorating, or any people in your shots. You can still shoot handheld during the blue hour. The darker it gets, the longer the exposures will need to be; further increasing your chances of blur.

What You Will Need:

Tripod: When photographing Christmas lights, you need to keep the camera absolutely still. Because Christmas lights are very dim, you will need to shoot with a slower shutter speed. 1/15th of a second is a good place to start. Just a little camera shake, and your Christmas lights will streak and you will not have a sharp image.

Settings:

1/15th of a second shutter speed.
High ISO. ISO 800 is a good place to start.
Turn off Auto White Balance – The camera can become very confused by all the different lights. It is best to set your camera to Tungsten White Balance, and this way you will have a nice blue color to your scene which looks nice at night.
Turn off your Flash. – when taking pictures Christmas lights, you want to capture all the subtle colors and soft light given off by the lights. When you use a flash, you will blast that intense light onto your subject causing high contrast and unnatural looking light. But if you have a good reason to use the flash, use it. For instance, if you want to make a photo of your kids standing out in the snow with the Christmas lights, Expose for the Christmas lights so you down overexpose them, and the flash will illuminate the kids. Shoot manual mode to be able to control the ambient light separately from the flash.
Manual Focus – Turn off auto focus. The dim conditions will make the camera want to refocus between shots. If your camera supports live view, turn it on and magnify the image 5x or 10x to precisely focus on the tiny lights.
Depth of field – you want to get everything in focus,

Other Tips

Pay attention to the background, make sure there is nothing distracting poking into the frame.
Tough to find a good angle. Walk around looking for the best composition. Most people will just grab a snapshot of the lights and move on. but If you take the time to find a unique perspective, your image will stand out from the rest.
Zoom in on specific details in the scene. These close ups help tell the whole story.
Show Up Early. Arrive before it gets dark out, this way you can take the time to find a good angle and not be rushed. You don’t want to be scrambling to find your shot all while the light in the sky is fading.
Remember to have a good time, The holidays are all about spending time with family, don’t neglect them because you are so worried about taking that perfect shot.

Happy Holidays everybody,

See you next year.

How To Plan A Photography Trip

Sometimes you feel like everywhere you look, nothing would make a good shot. You are tired of the same old scenery. You have photographed everything in your town and your ready for something new. Nothing inspires my photography more than traveling to someplace new. When you have lived in one place for a while, you start to have blinders on to the local area. People become used to their environment and start to tune a lot of it out.
When tourists travel someplace new, everything is new to them and they will start to see all sorts of great things to photograph.
When you see a new place through fresh eyes, everything is new and you see photos everywhere you look. There is nothing better than a trip to someplace new to get the creativity juices flowing. Its time to start planning a photography trip.

The first thing you need to ask yourself is:

1. “Where do you want to go?”

If you only have a few days, you should probably keep the trip somewhat local. A short road trip to the mountains, the coast, a national park, etc. Possibly even a quick flight to a nearby city for the weekend.
If you have more time, consider flying to another state or traveling internationally to someplace exotic. The most expensive part of the trip is often the plane ticket. You should try to get your money’s worth and stay for as long as possible. If you are still having trouble deciding where to go, check out deal sites such as Living Social or Groupon for deals on trips. You can get some fantastic deals through these kind of sites. And you might discover someplace new that you did not know you wanted to travel to.

2. When Do You Want To Go?
Once you decide where You want to go, now it’s time to find out when is the best time to go. Are there any local festivals or events that you want to attend? Does the weather get uncomfortable during certain times of the year? Is it less expensive to visit during the “off season?” Does it get really crowded during certain times? These are all things you need to take into consideration when deciding when you want to travel.

Now that you have picked when and where you want to travel to, it is now time to research everything you possibly can about your destination. When I am researching a new location, I will create a folder on my computer desktop and label it the name of the destination. I will now compile as much information as I possibly can find into that folder. I currently have several folders of destinations I wish to one day visit. When I finally find the time to visit these places, I will already have done much of the research.

3. Things you should research
What time will Sunrise, Sunset, Moonrise, and Moonset be?
What will the weather be like? (Pack accordingly.)
Where are you going to stay? How much will it cost?
What restaurants are nearby?
What scenic or historic locations are nearby?
What local events or festivals are taking place when I’m there?
What is the transportation like? How will you get around?

4. Some of the resources I use when researching a destination
Search Wikipedia for articles about your destination.
Search Google images for your destination. The photos will not be great, but it will give you an idea of what to expect.
Search Flickr, Getty, 500px, trover.com, iStockphoto.com, and anywhere else for images of your destination.
Use Google Maps and Apple maps to get a lay of the land. Try to find views of the city.
Search message boards for information about your destination.
Read guide books. They might be outdated, but the information is often thorough.
Another place to find locations to photograph are Post Cards. They often are photographed from the most scenic views at a location. Next time you see a post card rack, be sure to take a look.
Sometimes you can find a photo workshop that takes place at your destination, and you might be able to find some new locations listed on the description of the workshop.
Ask people that you know who have traveled to your destination. They might know of some places that you should not miss.

5. Things To Remember
Bring appropriate clothing
Bring enough medication for twice as long as your planned trip.
Call your bank and let them know you will be traveling. Otherwise your credit cards might be locked out because they noticed somebody trying to use it in a different state.
If you are traveling internationally, call your cell phone provider and let them know you will be traveling. Otherwise you might be billed a crazy amount for not being on an international plan.
Your cell phone charger
It is a good idea to have insurance for your camera equipment. Make sure it covers your gear when you travel internationally.
Extra camera batteries
Lots of memory cards, More then you think you will need.
If you are bringing a computer, any cables needed for it.
A lightweight Tripod
If you’re traveling to someplace rainy, make sure you bring a rain cover for your camera.
Don’t put your valuable camera equipment in your checked luggage. It might not be there when you arrive.

Now that you have researched every last detail there is to know about a location, it is now time to start packing for your trip. It is very easy to over pack when traveling. You will want to bring just about every piece of gear you have but do you really need it? When you bring all of your gear, it complicates your photography. You have to lug around all of this heavy gear, and it makes getting around much harder. You will be exhausted at the end of the day. When I keep my gear to a minimum, I can focus on my photography more. Instead of thinking about what lens I should have on my camera, I am busy shooting. The less gear you bring, the better your trip will be. But if you absolutely need that 5 pound, 300mm 2.8 telephoto lens, then bring it. You don’t want to be out shooting and need something you decided not to bring. Just be selective of what you bring. What camera gear you bring will depend on what you plan on shooting. For wildlife, bring the telephoto lenses. For city and landscape photos, a wider lens will be better.

One Final Note

When traveling someplace new, give yourself an assignment. Instead of just roaming around town looking for photos, when you have an assignment your photography will have a purpose. If your photography has a purpose, the photos will find you and your chances of ending up with keepers rises significantly.
Try telling a story about the city, about the wildlife, about the people who live there and their way of life. A photo becomes a lot more interesting if their is a story behind it. You just have to tell it.

Have a great trip!

Photo Lowdown

Recent Posts

What is Shutter Speed?

What Is A Histogram?

A Proper Histogram

Break the Rules

Why You Should Shoot Raw

The Benefits of shooting RAW:

The Cons of shooting RAW:

The Benefits of Shooting JPEG

What is White Balance?

How to Take Great Pictures of Christmas Lights

Take Pictures During The Blue Hour

What You Will Need:

Settings:

Other Tips

How To Plan A Photography Trip

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A Proper Histogram

Break the Rules

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The Benefits of shooting RAW:

The Cons of shooting RAW:

The Benefits of Shooting JPEG

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Take Pictures During The Blue Hour

What You Will Need:

Settings:

Other Tips

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